 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
Restaurant Roulette, anyone? Need a scorecard? No sooner does one of these profiles appears in print when, it seems, the featured restaurant closes and is replaced by another. Take 154, for example. The Argus first reviewed the upscale bistro in 2004 when it was serving “New American” cuisine. Then in February of this year we profiled it when it went Vietnam-ese. Say “tam biêt” to 154 and “buon giorno” to Risibisi. Only the address remains the same: 154 Petaluma Blvd. North. 154 (the Vietnamese version) was so proletarian in appearance that yours truly described it as looking “like a 1960s noodle house in some Asian city behind the Bamboo Curtain.” Intrepid photographer Terry Hankins agreed. Knowing the camera doesn’t lie, he avoided taking any interior shots for the article, and instead focused on a close-up of a Dungeness crab dish and of a staffer serving a beer. The first thing one notices upon entering Risibisi is that it has undergone a major renovation. Make that mega-overhaul. Co-owners Marco Palmieri, general manager, and chef Fabio Flagiello flew their interior decorator out from Florida, and together dined at several “in” San Fran-cisco restaurants for decorating ideas. But, as Palmieri says, “It was important to us to support Petaluma businesses,” and rattles off several local suppliers that included Mike’s Glass, Heritage Salvage, Che-lsea Antiques and Trillium Florists. “It took five intense weeks,” says Palmieri, “14 hours every day,” and the result is not only thoughtful and tasteful, it’s as inviting as a warm comforter on a frosty night. Design components such as stressed wood paneling from old barns, a curtain of heavy rope suspended from the ceiling, and a huge drape of beige weaved-cotton that stylishly masks the great barren “wall of Saigon” from earlier days are so well-balanced they not only please the eye but soothe the senses. The lighting fixtures, like giant white bachelor buttons, are dazzling, and there are interesting abstract paintings on one exposed brick wall, and a succulent garden rooted in white gravel that runs along the front window. The soft, organic elements of the room allow for quiet conversation while enjoying the eclectic yet unobtrusive selection of music (another creature comfort missing at 154). Chinese rock was playing when Ann and Steve, my dining companions, and I entered, and as we settled in and nibbled on breadsticks from Della Fattoria across the street, we listened to classical piano, a tango, then something Middle Eastern. “What next,” Steve joked, “Weird Al?” Hard as it was to take our eyes off our surroundings and our aural senses from the music, we turned our attention to the menu. Ann and Steve both chose the Organic Baby Beets Salad ($7) to start and I opted for the Autumn Trio ($10): Pumpkin soup, a cabbage-apple-raisin purse and porcini ravioli. The beets salad proved to be a happy choice for my pals, although I must confess I was less impressed, as watercress is not a favorite green of mine. However, the Autumn Trio was as fun as it was flavorsome. The soup, served in a tiny espresso cup, was thick and bursting with rich pumpkin flavor and allspice, the cabbage and fruit purse had a nice sweet-sour tang, and the mushroom ravioli had a pleasant smoky taste. For our entrees, Ann chose the Baked Chicken Breast ($16) filled with goat cheese, chicken sausage, pistachio and black truffle. It was thick, juicy, and tender and served with a grilled polenta that had a delicate cheesy crust. Steve had the fabulous Linguine loaded with clams, shrimp, mussels, crabmeat and squid ($15), and I had an excellent Risi e Bisi, risotto with chunks of lobster tail, mushrooms and peas ($16). There are 10 red and white wines each served by the glass. Ann and I found the 2005 Kenwood Chardonnay ($6.50) a perfect accompaniment to our meal. Risibisi is also an elegant wine bar with 120 or so wines from around the world (mainly Italian), sold by the bottle at very reasonable prices. I was also pleased to see many Sonoma County labels on the list. Dinner was filling and we decided to share the Warm Mission Figs Strudel ($7) for dessert. Unfortunately, the strudel came to us as cold and gooey as yesterday’s cookie dough. One bite each resulted in three immediate thumbs down. Palmieri graciously offered a replacement but we just as graciously declined. The menu changes weekly, so I’m eager to try Flagiello’s other dishes. I’m betting that Risibisi will be a magnet for night owls who wish to sup near 11, and for all of us a welcome addition to Petaluma’s fine dining scene for many years to come. By BOB CANNING
Published: Nov 1, 2006 |
|
• Petaluma Argus Courier article:
|
|
|
|
707-766-7600 info@risibisirestaurant.com © 2009 risibisirestaurant.com all rights reserved